The necessity of eye creams has long been debated in the skincare world. While some claim they are essential for addressing the unique needs of the delicate under-eye area, others argue they are little more than a marketing gimmick. This article explores the scientific evidence, regulatory distinctions, and industry practices to determine whether eye creams are truly necessary or just redundant.

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Is the eye area even different from the rest of the face?

Yes, the periorbital region has distinct anatomical and physiological characteristics that make it more prone to dryness, wrinkles, dark circles, and puffiness. These differences include:

• Thinner Epidermis & Dermis – The periorbital skin is notably thinner compared to other facial regions (1) - which makes underlying blood vessels more visible (dark circles).
• Frequent Movement & Mechanical Stress – blinking, plus squinting and rubbing maske the eye area more susceptible to fine line formation since repeated skin flexure causes wrinkles (2).
• Higher Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) – The eye area loses moisture faster than other parts of the face (3).

These factors theoretically justify specialized skincare—but do eye creams actually contain unique formulations?

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Do eye creams have to be formulated differently than facial creams and serums?

According to cosmetic regulations, the answer is no. Cosmetic regulations do not require eye creams to have specific formulations - and therefore, they don't. Ingredients in eye creams are the same found in moisturizers and serums that are marketed towards the rest of the face.

In both the U.S. (FDA) and European Union, eye creams are regulated as cosmetics under the same category as moisturizers and serums. There is no regulatory requirement that distinguishes eye creams from other skincare products in terms of formulation, safety testing, or efficacy standards. The only regulatory constraint is that products intended for use around the eyes must be tested for ocular irritation (4), but this does not affect ingredient selection. 

So, eye creams don't have to be different... but are they?

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In practice, are eye creams different/more targeted?

Some brands choose to make certain adjustments for the periorbital area, the most common being removing fragrance and lowering active ingredient concentrations to reduce the risk of irritation. However, these changes are not universal, and again, there is no legal requirement ensuring that eye creams are gentler or more effective. Simply choosing an "eye cream" does not ensure a gentler formulation.

Eye creams often claim to target dark circles, puffiness, and wrinkles, but the active ingredients they use are the same ones found in serums and face moisturizers.For hydration, eye creams rely on humectants (hyaluronic acid, glycerin), emollients (squalane, fatty acids), and occlusives (ceramides, petrolatum)—all of which are already present in well-formulated face moisturizers.

For anti-aging, they often contain retinol, peptides, niacinamide, and vitamin C, just like face serums. Some eye creams dilute these actives, but others use the same concentrations or higher, making them functionally no different from serums or night creams.

For dark circles and puffiness, caffeine is a commonly used ingredient. However, clinical studies show that caffeine’s decongestant effect is temporary and does not address structural causes of under-eye bags. Moreover, face serums containing caffeine often have equal or higher concentrations than eye creams, meaning they may be just as or more effective.

The best approach is not to assume an eye cream is necessary, but rather to identify the concern (hydration, wrinkles, dark circles) and select a product that effectively addresses it—whether that is an eye cream, a serum, or a moisturizer.

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Conclusion

From a regulatory and formulation perspective, eye creams and face creams are interchangeable. A brand can legally sell the same formula under both labels or switch them without consequence, underscoring the lack of meaningful distinctions between these products. 

The perceived necessity of eye creams is largely a result of marketing strategies aimed at encouraging consumers to purchase a separate product for the under-eye area. That being said, that doesn't mean that there aren't good products out there that happen to be labeled "eye cream". It just means the "eye cream" labelling alone holds no meaning (unlike "SPF", for example, which is highly regulated). As consumers, we shouldn't assume a product addresses our eye area skin concerns just because it's named an eye cream. We should look at ingredients (and compare price per ml) before making a decision.

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References

1.Tagami, H. Location-related differences in structure and function of the stratum corneum with special emphasis on those of the facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00459.x

2.Hillebrand, G. G., Liang, Z., Yan, X., & Yoshii, T. New wrinkles on wrinkling: an 8-year longitudinal study on the progression of expression lines into persistent wrinkles. British Journal of Dermatology. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20184587/

3.Voegeli, R., Rawlings, A. V., Seroul, P., & Summers, B. A novel continuous color mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups. Skin Research and Technology. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/280586902_A_novel_continuous_color_mapping_approach_for_visualization_of_facial_skin_hydration_and_transepidermal_water_loss_for_four_ethnic_groups

4.European Parliament and Council. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products. Official Journal of the European Union. EUR-Lex - Official Journal of the European Union